Wednesday, July 26, 2006

TheTall Ships Sail Away....

Sunday 23 July, midday, strong heat, the sun high and shining from across the RiverTejo. We assemble & wait from 11a.m. in our many thousands. Something unique is about to happen. People cling to the little shade available, namely, the Monument to the Discoveries that I showed you last week.
In the end, it was impossible - to choose just 4 photos from around 200. But it's done. 3 are for sheer symbolism (1, 3 & 4), because I was struck by so much historical symbolism as we waited.
I looked up at the Mon/Disoveries and saw the sun shining on the caravelle that Henry the Navigator holds, watched the hundreds of yachts, cabin cruisers, dinghies, even canoes pouring outof the marinas to accompany the ships to the sea beyond. And I thought: the Portuguese have forever been essentially a people of the sea. It is what they have always done well, out of necessity. Even today, there are so many marinas, ports, boats, so many fisherman - professional, leisure, pure necessity to supplement the food budget.
And here they were, under the shadow of their founding fathers. The pic. shows the first of the largest ships waitng to start, from beyond the bridge, watched over by those ancient discoverers.
And then it began
, majestically led by the Portugese beauty, the 'Sagres', named after the 15th-century school of navigation at the south western tip of Europe. Across the river, another monument, the sombre, over-large 'gift' from the 20th-cent. Dictator Salazar, Cristo Rei (Christ the King), always watching everything, like Big Brother.
Half a mile (3/4 km) further towards the sea stands the Torre (Tower) de Belem. More symbolism. Built in only 5 years & finished in 1520, this is a masterpiece of Manueline architecture; it has no rival anywhere in the world & is perhaps Lisbon's greatest monument. Proud, magnificent, in perfect condition, it was not constructed for glory, or for admiration. it had a vital role in the defence of the city, erected at the mouth of theTagus estuary to watch & warn of threats from theAtlantic. On Sunday, only VIPs had access to the view from its upper storeys, or could watch the ships from aspeciall-erected (& shaded) grandstand, we the plebs kept at a distance by barriers & some police.
You see
a Spanish ship that was second in line, already beyond theTower. I think it is poetic.

My last picture is, I feel, very special. I saw maybe 30 of the 75 ships sail by, heard the crews cheering and chanting, met with applause from the over-heating spectators. This is the ship I choose to show you, in its rightful place, passing the Tower.
She is the 'Vera Cruz' a perfectly-scaled replica of a 16th-century caravelle,the ships in which Portuguese sailors departed from this spot to discover the world.
It was a once in a lifetime moment. If I could, I'd show you a slightly later pic of the comparatively huge German, Dutch & Argentinian ships that caught it, overshadowed it, slowed & then passed it.
And you had to wonder: How did they do what they did in the15th/16th centuries in such a tiny vessel?
Posted by Picasa

10 comments:

Anonymous said...

I don't want to overcongratulate your text and pictures, but the mix of textphotographs is unique. We cannot say colors are strong and vivd and the light conditions perfect. But it's interesting that you need a great work with just a tiny camera box... I really loved this event as you can see in my blog, so this text says a lot to me, because it's evocative of one of great tresaures of the coutry, the sea...now always well care... One thing we're right: we should think about those man who cross the atlantic in vera-cruz and other caravelas and face the futureof the country to transform it, and modify it for better. Cheers.

Jenny said...

When I put my face VERY close to my monitor and read the teeny tiny type, I can see that you have quite an interesting tale to tell and I love the final picture - the large version is quite stunning!

ana said...

Oh, I love them all, but the last one really moved me. So that's what they saw on those days of Descobrimentos from Torre de Belém.

Icarus said...

Port'i,I think I know what you want to say. Don't foget, mid-day, sun directly overhead, mostly Iwas using one hand to act as a shield from the sunlight. The nearest of the shots to true colours is the3rd, looking out to sea, away from the sun. I'm glad you, as a Portuguese, appreciated the text aboutyour people & history.
Jenny, thanks & I'm sorry about inlficting eye damage on you with the reduced size. But could you manage to read it or not?
And Ana...I'm so pleased to have you visit again. It's been so long and I missed you (I've been reading as citações do dia faithfully!). Did you see any of this event? This is the end of Tall ships for me,thankfully. But I have to agree, of these 4, the Vera Cruz passing the Torre de B was actually moving... emotionally I mean!

Emmanuelle said...

Cette forteresse me plaît

:)

edwin s said...

Stewart (that is your name, no?), Jenny wasn't the only one inflicted with short-term eye damage ;)
I recently had to admit I needed reading glasses and I had to reach out for them. Oh dear!

I think all the shots are symbolic. the second, for me, gives us the feel of how history sails in harmony with the present. The ship's masts and the bridge's lines mirror each other. both involve transportation. it's great! even with Big Brother looking down.

You have 200 shots? Wow! It must've been a dream being there AND capturing every moment.

Ok, glasses coming off now.

Manuel Tendero Gil said...

muy buenas estas ultimas un saludo

Icarus said...

Thanks/obrigadíssimo/merçi/graçias
to all of you.
Ed: is it? I'd forgotten. Kinda got used to NMan. You & Jen, (why not the others?), I mentioned something about litigation culture last week. I won't see you on court, you just me the optical bills. My lawyer, Maître Portelini candeal with them. Sorry,won't try that again (attempt to stop Picasa throwing away pic 4). The 'dream' was a little to do justice to on camera without a sun shield. See that too-light water & sky?
But, yes, the Torre de Belem and the caravela -something to remember. Now I'm tall-shipped out & must get back to loads of warm colours.......

Icarus said...

PS - Really LOL! ON court?? Like, Wimbledon? Forest Hills, Roland Garros? Deffo weon't see you there. Or IN court!

Ame said...

OK "Somewhere" Man...you better fess up right NOW!

Just when exACTLY did you steal our Golden Gate Bridge?!?!?

And just WHO gave you permission to post such incredible, textural shots with so much HISTORY built in?!? Hmmmmmmmmmmm? Would you like to answer that one? (Arms folded, tapping foot furiously on the floor!) ;-)

No really Sam, your story is wonderful...I'm just so DAMNED jealous of everyone who in contact, on a daily basis, with so much history...

Sigh~~~~~~~~~guess I'll have to be happy with our measly 230 years!

LOL!
;-)